Past the Policy...

As the title suggests, I have found ways to turn off my 'policy mind' from time to time :-).

While a lot of Dakar's problems lie in the environment and it's maintenance (or better put, lack thereof), its beauty (in a very human way) lies in its people the many contradictions present in their relations with one another. In this way it is not too different from anywhere else on earth; you can count on people to be people. I will explain.

On the surface, there is a level of respect between people that is unlike any other place I have visited. From what I have seen, this has a lot do with the fact that Senegal is essentially a Muslim state (there is a Christian minority), and thus there is a significant emphasis on custom and respect, especially in interactions between individuals. But this custom also has elements that are not so appealing, at least to those of us--particularly women-- in the more progressive world. There is a strict understanding between the role of women and that of men which has made for several semi-awkward interactions as I have learned my way around here. (Growing up in a household and family made up of very strong women, essentially 'renaissance women', adapting to the more traditional views/positions of women has been, at times, challenging). Young girls and women are encouraged to pursue education (topic of a later post), though there is an understanding that no matter how successful you are, you are the woman of the house and must be able to perform the tasks associated with that position. A cute/hilarious/sad example of this has been watching Anta, Sam's 2 year-old niece, who is FULL of attitude but is already being prepared to be a 'woman of the house.' Waddling around with a huge smile on her face, her mother an aunts fitted her with a headwrap, strapped her up with a melon tied to her back (to simulate the way in which Senegalese women carry infants) and giggled as she moved around the house, a small broom in hand.

That Islam is such a (stated) significant part of life here is not always the most accurate of facts, however, particularly among the younger generations, some of whom do not pray 5 times a day, drink, smoke and engage in premarital sex, all things that are forbidden or frowned upon by the Koran. I will save the religious investigation to someone with a bit more knowlege and experience, though there is certainly a question to be explored there.

Beyond the surface level, the hospitality here is second to none, though it is difficult to gauge how widespread this actually is because I am getting the foreigner/guest treatment. That said, what I have gathered is that while my case lies outside of the norm, from the very top of the hierarchy (patriarch/matriarch) to the bottom (errand boys/ girls), everyone is accounted for and taken care of. Out here, family truly takes care of its own (which includes, sometimes, fixed marriages between cousins to 'keep the family strong').